Well every regatta is normally remembered by the highs and lows, and the 2004 version of the kings cup will be no exception, especially while the highs were pretty high, the low point was almost the bottom of the barrel. Bells Bungalows' are definitely for the budget conscious, 200 baht a night, or around $5, for a clean room, friendly critters, and a cold shower is pretty good. Buy the end of the regatta quite the number of sailors had made it their home. The really good thing was the walls were so thin you could talk to the bungalow next door from your bed with no raised voices. This was quite the bonus when deciding if it was time to get up yet, or just planning a social occasion at the bar. Only two minutes walk from the luxury Kata Beach Resort, its 5000 baht rooms, and Kings Cup central on the island of Phuket. Sunday saw a practice on the water in my boat for the
regatta, a Phuket8 sports boat. 24ft long, 10ft wide, nice carbon fiber
mast, and a retractable bowsprit that articulates 30 degrees either
side of center for the huge asymmetrical spinnakers. Monday and the first race unfortunately did not live
up to expectations. A distance race out into the Aderman Sea to the
south of Phuket, wind about 15knots. But a large part of the first race
was a white sail reach, something that an overpowered sports boat just
doesn't do well at, but it got worse, much worse. During the first reach
we were in close proximity to a J120 when our boat had a problem which
resulted in the J120 colliding with us in a rapid series of events.
Sandy was sitting close to the shrouds with her legs hanging over the
rail, while I was next to her facing inboard in order to actively trim
the jib. The following is what I remember, and is very much in
the first person, not because I was doing all the work, everyone was
busy but I am vague on the details of their role as I was only focused
on what I had to do to keep us afloat and alive. Up until this point in my sailing career I have never
needed to cut a line in a critical situation, and ironicly today was
one of the few days I had a knife in my pocket, than in a crew bag downstairs.
After cutting the main sheet, vang, and uncleating the jib, the boat
leveled out and I ducked downstairs to see how fast we were sinking.
With a fair bit of trepidation, actually I was shitting myself, with
lines and carnage all over the place, the last place I wanted to be
was downstairs. Luckily due to the construction of the wing on the Phuket8,
the hole into the main hull was only the size of a coffee cup,and not
a huge issue. I released the main halyard, and cut the jib halyard due
to a tangle in the line (both are located at the base of the mast down
below), went back upstairs and helped Bob into the boat cutting the
mainsheet (again) and traveler in the process. I left Bob to deal with
Sandy and plucked the handheld VHF out of the webbing pocket and tried
to contact the race committee, the fasted way to get help as I could
see. Thankfully she is alive, and when we visited her in
intensive care she was smiling with incredible sprit, and on her way
to what should be a full recovery, however that will still be many months
away. So here I was at the Kings Cup, which only the day before
had been full of promise, now had a broken boat, and injured crew. For
Sandy and for me, I still wanted to keep sailing, so I set about getting
myself another ride, and why not start at the top. Sailing is not the only thing the Kings Cup is known for, the social events are something else again. Coming fresh from the Raja Muda I thought i was well looked after, that was just the beginning. While the Raja Muda had lunchtime starts, and drinking to the wee hours safe in the knowledge that you could sleep in the next morning, the Kings Cup is almost opposite. Racing starts at 8:30am, meaning a 7am departure from the beach in longtail boats to the fleet anchored in the bay. Racing is normally finished and back on the beach by 2pm at the latest, just in time for lunch at a seaside restaurant, and from there to the Ska bar under the tree with its reggae music, and more cold beer. After this I always planned for and felt like a afternoon nap, but it never happened, it was always bungalow for a cold shower and fresh clothes, and back to the next event on the list, a list made up of with the major sponsors of the Kings Cup. At the start of the event I received a plastic pass to get me into all these events. Imagine that, a social calendar for a week, somewhere you knew everyone else would be turning up to, it even had the times when you had to be there, and of course it was all free. If a party was at a different location, free busses would collect us and drop us back. This is the lifestyles of the rich and richer, and I have to say its really fun, as each resort, be it the Phuket Hilton, the Royal Orchid, or the Boathouse Restaurant would be committing commercial suicide if they didn't throw a party worthy of their reputation, and we ate and drank it all in. Of course Phuket has the other end of the spectrum, and while the sailing and most of the events were at either Kata or Karon Beach, Patong is the party zone upholding the Thailand reputation. After the official functions a fleet of tuk-tuks loaded with drunk sailors exhorting more speed from the drivers of these miniature vehicles as each one vied to be first to the bar. The drivers of course took to this like fish to water and pretty soon there were three abreast passing maneuvers carried out with aplomb and not a hint of apprehension. No Tuk-tuks were harmed in this activity, but we sure did get to the bar fast. After a night of bar hopping, and steady stream of people headed for home in the small hours of the morning, only to get up at 6am ready for the next days racing... So while I didn't get a result on the race course, I managed to sail with three of the top race boats in Division 1, had offers to sail on many more, and made some great friends. And this is just the start of the Asian Yachting Circuit. From here there is a race from Phuket to Singapore, followed by Singapore Straights Regatta, then north into the South China Sea for events in Hong Kong, Vietnam, Brunei, and back to Thailand in Koh Samui, along with several more events till the next Kings Cup.... For warm water sailing, I have been wearing nothing more than a t-shirt and shorts for my entire time here, with good wind, fun people with fantastic food and great culture, as well as being cheap cheap cheap...this is where its at. |